Farmers markets offer options during shortages and inflation

The phrase “support local” might be a buzz phrase these days, but with grocery store supply shortages and skyrocketing inflation of prices, now is perhaps the best time to seek out fresh food at neighborhood farmers markets.  

And there are plenty to choose from across Greater Lansing, including the Allen Street Farmers Market, which launched in 2004. Today, its Wednesday market remains a regular go-to for families in search of fresh, locally grown food and products — no matter the budget. Market manager Jenny Wagemann said the market was the first in the state to accept EBT/SNAP food assistance. Outside of flexible payments, the diverse market is also stacked with a variety of foodie delights.   

One of those dynamic vendors is Grazing Fields, known at Allen Street for its selection of pork bacon, sausage, ground lamb, steaks, roast, eggs, honey and maple syrup. 

Jane Bush, Grazing Fields’ general manager, said she witnessed a sizeable increase in shoppers at the start of the pandemic, back in March 2020 — when many shelves were stripped clean.  

But even though local farmers market vendors don’t operate like the big-chain stores, Bush said even their local operation was negatively impacted by the economic effects of COVID-19. For instance, she witnessed a sudden shortage in containers for one of their most-sold items: eggs.  

“All the restaurants shut down,” Bush recalled. “In the egg business, at least 50% of the U.S. egg production goes into institutions, restaurants or some kind of food service. Overnight, all the eggs either had to be liquified and frozen, or go to retail. The egg carton manufacturer had to start pumping out a lot of retail egg cartons, and it created a huge shortage and a huge price increase for us. Our egg cartons are 100% recycled pulp, so it was a big mess for a while, but we recovered.” 

Along with the shortage of some materials, at the same time, Bush said it was hard to keep up with the demand of devoted shoppers in search of pork products.   

“Once people get the taste of fresh eggs or pork, it’s really hard to go back to the regular, run-of-the-mill eggs and pork,” she said. “People who come here are very loyal customers.” 

Another local vendor, Magnolia Farms, started in 2013 as a single-lot garden, and has evolved over the years. Co-Manager Aliza Ghaffari said the farm, which has grown to five lots, has been a vendor at Allen Street for the past four seasons. Last year, Magnolia also began vending at the East Lansing Farmers Market. Ghaffari said they are happy to see more people expressing interest in not only buying local, but also growing their own food.  

“I think seeing empty shelves in grocery stores and price increases have made the fragility of our current situation more immediately apparent to more people,” Ghaffari said.   

Outside of keeping money in Lansing, Ghaffari said shopping at farmers markets offers plenty of other benefits to area consumers. Produce often stays fresh in the fridge longer than grocery store bags of lettuce, which have already been sitting for a while and can go bad in just a few days. It’s that added value that keeps people coming back.  

For Magnolia Farms, that steady customer base has enabled the farm to expand.  

“When you shop at the market you are investing in the strength of our local food system,” Ghaffari said. “Your dollars make a big impact on our farm. Every year we are putting the profits we make back into the farm. This is directly helping us to grow more food for more people.  

“In all honesty, we see this as a form of emergency preparedness,” Ghaffari added. “We want to be ready to meet the growing needs of people who want or need to be able to get their food locally if prices at the store keep rising and food shortages return.” 

With prices are on the rise, Magnolia Farms offers free vegetables for anyone struggling financially. They are available in a cooler in front of Reads, 2019 E. Michigan Ave., and seasonally, in a free fridge in front of The Fledge, 1300 Eureka St.. “Food is a right, not a privilege,” Ghaffari said, “you deserve to eat well. We are also happy to do work trades. (You can) come help out at the farm and shop free at the market that week.” 

On the other side of this homegrown industry are the shoppers, like Southside Lansing resident Bee Queener. She said she makes it a weekly ritual to walk to nearby farmers markets to complete her grocery shopping. 

“Once the growing season takes off, we plan our meals around market hauls,” Queener said. “We know we will get the best bread on Wednesday from Stone Circle Bakery, micro greens from Highwater Farms, veggies from Magnolia Farms and lettuce from Blue Mitten Farms. Oh, and you can't forget the mushroom people, NOM! On Thursdays, we know we can re-up on other veggies from our favorite farmers that come to the Southside market. It’s such an event for us, especially now with our kiddo in tow — she makes friends at every stand.” 

Queener, who said she is inspired by local growers and makers, enjoys meeting with the folks who produce or grow what her family consumes. She said she considers it an educational resource for her and her daughter.  

“Not only are we hoping to inspire her to make local market trips as she grows up, I'm also hoping that seeing other farmers growing grub, like we do on a tiny scale, drives home the fact that access to fresh and local food options is a human right,” Queener said. “By growing our own food, we feel connected to our meals and the experience of eating as a whole.  

“Even if folks can’t grow their own food at this very moment, seeing others do it makes it real and can hopefully inspire others to try it out,” she added. “Farmers markets plant seeds in so many ways.”