Just as the kitchen often functions as the hub of a household, a restaurant can stand as the backbone of a neighborhood. Looking around the Lansing area, our region is full of locally owned and operated eateries with importance well beyond that which is served on a plate. From a gathering place for meals, special occasions or even a mental health check-in with a dear friend to a place to be seen, catch up on the latest news (or gossip) or find stable employment, these “mom-and-pop” restaurants perform critical roles in fostering a sense of community. When one of these neighborhood mainstays closes, it leaves a social void in addition to a flavor vacuum.

Such was the case on Willow Street in northwest Lansing when DeLuca’s Restaurant closed in 2021. Not only did Lansing lose some of the best pizza in the area, but the neighborhood lost an icon that had housed joy and deliciousness for many decades. This was on the heels of the neighborhood’s local Quality Dairy closing in 2018. The Old Oakland and Edgemont Park neighborhoods were without many options to anchor their community around.

Enter John Douglas and Quantel Mckissic, the owners of Hank’s Cuisines, which opened in September and serves up soul food, breakfast, burgers and more. The pair purchased the former Quality Dairy and, after delays associated with the pandemic, renovated the space into a sit-down restaurant with multiple booths and tables, but the bread and butter of the operation is takeout.

Mckissic and Douglas see their small business as playing a large part in the vitality and strength of the neighborhood. On one of my visits, I witnessed Douglas providing instruction and feedback to a worker he’d taken a chance on while also correcting a young boy who was speaking out of turn to his mother. This exhibition of leadership and civic presence is emblematic of someone who’s invested more than just money into a business but also sweat into a community. What Hank’s Cuisines represents is just as important as what it cooks up on the daily. And the food is also darn impressive.

What’s good

The southern flavors found at Hank’s rival any of your favorites around town. The dirty rice ($4.99) is cooked to perfection and packed full of savory, crumbled meat. It pairs well with any of the proteins offered on the menu, including the sauteed shrimp ($6.99).

The spaghetti with Texas toast ($8.99) is a baked noodle dish with intense flavors and plenty of cheese. It’s the epitome of soul food spaghetti, with nods to both Italian and Southern cooking.

The smash burger ($11.99) with bacon ($3.30) is also very solid. The Hank’s sauce, akin to a sauce found near the golden arches, marries well with crunchy bites of the smashed, flat-top-grilled burger.

What’s really good

The breakfast options at Hank’s are served all day. Breakfast bowls, bagel sandwiches, and steak and eggs are joined on by several French toast options, including Cinnamon Toast Crunch and stuffed strawberry cheesecake. The Fruity Pebbles French toast ($14.99) comes with eggs and a choice of meat, but the star of the show is the glazed Texas toast that’s coated with flakes of sugary cereal. It sounds sweet because it is. This dish is not for the faint of heart or the prediabetic.

The fried chicken sandwich ($11.49) is also seriously good. A thick filet is battered and fried hard to a crusty perfection. Tossed in Nashville hot sauce ($2.08), the sandwich hits all the right notes of sweet heat: paprika, cayenne, honey and brown sugar. This sandwich is so very pleasing.

Best bite

As good as the chicken sandwich is, this month’s best bite goes to the spicy fried fish and grits ($13.99). I’ve been yearning for another bowl of those lush and creamy hominy grits with cheese and Creole seasoning since I finished the last one. The three pieces of fish are battered with a combination of cornmeal and flour, and they pair impeccably with the grits. Add a drizzle of the hot honey sauce, and you’ll be planning your next visit to the northwest side of Lansing.