Don’t take pomegranate for granted

As we cruise toward the winter solstice, fresh produce is starting to feel like a faded memory. The tomatoes are anemic, and the lettuce has jet lag. But the pomegranate harvest has just begun, and this ancient fruit adds a zest to food that’s as fresh as a daisy. 

The bright red orbs dangle like ornaments from their bushy trees. Native to Central Asia, some historians believe them to be the fruit of the biblical tree of knowledge. In modern times, pomegranate trees have adapted to the warm edges of temperate climates around the world. They’re tolerant to high heat and low precipitation, easy to grow and can produce huge crops, which, coupled with growing demand for the fruit, has caused a surge in the planting of pomegranate trees. Pomegranate orchards are replacing apple orchards in parts of India that are now too hot for apple growing.

The ruby-colored seeds, called arils, can turn the average cook into a culinary magician, as garnishing with them involves roughly the same wrist motion as casting a spell. Grab a handful and fling them upon salad, soup, steak, breakfast and everything in between. The acidity adds flavor to every bite, similar to taking a sip of lusty red wine while chewing your food.

A ripe pomegranate will feel heavy for its size, similar to a ripe watermelon. It shouldn’t be round and shiny but have leathery skin and sunken sides that accentuate its ridges. In other words, it should look a tad old.

Extracting the arils can be messy if your technique is off. But if you score the peel around the equator, pull the fruit in half and tap gently, the seeds will come out cleanly and easily.

The fruit’s fridge life can be extended for months by wrapping it in a paper towel and storing it in a paper bag at the bottom of the fridge where there isn’t much activity. You want to leave the wrapped pomegranates unbothered, with as few vibrations as possible.

Pomegranate hummus

My pomegranate hummus doesn’t taste sweet or look at all reddish; if not for the garnish, you wouldn’t even guess it has pomegranate. Adding some arils to the blend allows us to skip the lemon juice because the pomegranate juice provides all the acidity we need. It’s a slick hack if you ever find yourself short on citrus juice.

These proportions make for a soupy, pourable hummus — not that thick stuff you could lay bricks with. I like it thin so I can use it as a sauce on things like meat or salad. But if that isn’t your style, omit the water from the bean can, and it will be thicker. All the proportions are negotiable. Blend it up, taste, adjust and blend again.

• One 16-ounce can garbanzo
• beans
• 1 tablespoon tahini paste
• 1 large clove garlic, chopped
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 tablespoons pomegranate arils

Empty the can of garbanzo beans, including the water, into the blender. Add the tahini, garlic, olive oil and a tablespoon of the pomegranate seeds and liquefy. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding not only salt but more pomegranate seeds, oil, garlic or tahini, depending on your tastes. Blend again and garnish with a pour of olive oil and a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds.