Cooper’s Hawk lives up to its lofty reputation

By GABRIELLE  LAWRENCE

For many years, I was a voracious reader of Bon Appétit magazine. Then I had two children and stopped having as much time to cook, and there were allegations of racism against Bon Appétit’s editor in chief. But before that, back in 2016, I read an article about a restaurant called Hillstone. Hillstone is nationwide, although we don’t have a location in the Lansing area. The article was more like an homage to Hillstone, and the next time we traveled to an area that had one, it was at the top of my list. It was everything I hoped it would be, and the Thai steak and noodle salad with a side of fries became my ultimate Hillstone meal. A hearty salad with a side of fries, like a slice of quiche with a green salad doused in vinaigrette, absolutely hits every time for me.

I’ve been searching for the “Hillstone high” ever since, and while I maintain a list of my favorite salads around town, I hadn’t found anything that compares to the Thai steak and noodle. And then Cooper’s Hawk entered the chat. I’ll claim that my behavior is due to conducting research for this article, but for the past few months, whenever I need to have a lunch meeting or an elevated meal of any kind, I suggest Cooper’s Hawk, and I order the Napa chicken salad ($20.99). This salad is absolutely laden with chopped apple; sweet, creamy goat cheese; dried cherries; fresh corn; avocado; salty, umami-filled Marcona almonds; and roasted chicken, all topped with a honey-mustard vinaigrette. There are literally dozens of other items I want to sample on the menu, but I’ve returned to this salad time and again. It’s fancy, it’s filling, and it’s being recreated chez Lawrence every chance I get.

I also had the chicken Caesar salad ($18.99) when we were invited to the Cooper’s Hawk ribbon cutting as a family. (Being the county commissioner who represents the district where the restaurant is located has some very specific and unanticipated benefits!) The pesto dressing was unique, fresh and delicious. My children made quick work of the kids’ menu and chose their favorites — she had spaghetti ($12.99), and he had the junior filet medallions ($21.99). It’s a pleasure to be able to take our rambunctious children to dinner and have lots of options for them, while Mr. She Ate and I still get to eat grown-up food.

On a subsequent visit, I tore myself away from the Napa chicken salad and tried the roasted vegetable enchiladas ($22.99). Aside from needing a heavy pinch of salt, these were fabulous: hearty, warming and filling. But the star of the show was the corn-jicama salad served on the side. This slaw-like salad included blanched green beans, which I wasn’t expecting at all and worked perfectly with the flavors. They brought a perfect balance of freshness to the enchiladas. I had taken my mother out for a birthday lunch, and she gobbled up her gorgeous, vibrant chopped wedge salad and crab, shrimp and lobster bisque before we were presented with complimentary truffles for dessert, which were the perfect bite to end our meal.

In April, I traveled to both Paris and New York City. I usually come home lamenting the lack of neighborhood restaurants that are a little bit elevated and within walking distance. Don’t get me wrong, there are hundreds of things I love about living in Lansing, but walkability doesn’t top that list. Since we live in the far north corner of the Groesbeck neighborhood, my new favorite restaurant is scratching all of those itches. Not every meal there has been perfect, but they’ve been close enough that I’ll keep coming back and telling everyone else to do the same.

By BRYAN BEVERLY

The area’s upscale dining scene continues to expand with more options for a fancy meal, a designer cocktail or a robust glass of vino. Diners likely have more choices today than at any point in the capital region’s history. From urban-chic renovations with exposed brick and ductwork to brand-new builds with white linens and gold-plated fixtures, the local landscape covers it all aesthetically. On the cuisine side, there are new-school steakhouses and New American and Italian options to tempt patrons into a night on the town or to help them celebrate the most special occasions.

As you can imagine, my co-reviewer and I have no shortage of restaurant recommendations from friends and family to check out or conversations that begin connected to our day jobs but eventually turn to our impressions on this or that new dining spot. I must say, in the three-plus years I’ve been writing the He Ate column, no place has had more positive feedback from my personal or social media networks than this month’s focus, Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurant. The adoration has been intense, setting the bar high for my visits.

Cooper’s Hawk opened in February on Lake Lansing Road near the Eastwood Towne Center, the latest location for the Illinois-based chain. The Napa-style tasting room allows wine connoisseurs and newbies alike to sample the company’s own white, red, sparkling or dessert wines. The wine club offers many advantages for members and is a key driver of the experience at Cooper’s Hawk. With a modern ambiance featuring classy touches of wood and metal, the space is sophisticated but not stuffy.

What’s charming

I took my much better half to brunch on a Sunday afternoon to celebrate our 15th wedding anniversary. (Where does the time go?) After all of the high praise that had been heaped on Cooper’s Hawk, I figured it would rise to an important occasion, and it didn’t disappoint. I ordered a brunch sangria ($5), which was vibrant and not too fruity, and my wife, being a mom of four active young ladies, opted for a boozy iced coffee ($9.99), which was decadent and powerful. We were also presented with complimentary glasses of the house sparkling almond wine ($10.25), which was delightful beyond our expectations.

For an appetizer, we shared the crispy Brussels sprouts ($17.99), which were excellent. We marveled at the complexity of flavors between the charred sprouts, mint, sweet Thai chili and sriracha aioli. The portion was plenty to share as we reflected on our lives together and laughed at memories.

My bride enjoyed the jammy eggs and avocado toast ($14.99). The toast was topped with arugula, red onion and a citrusy chili crunch that added brightness and a little kick. All of this paired well with the creaminess of the avocado and the perfectly cooked eggs. More of her side of candied bacon ($5.99) may have ended up on my plate than hers. 

I ordered the steak and eggs ($29.99), two filet medallions topped with grilled shrimp and a chili hollandaise sauce. The steak was a perfect medium rare, and the accompanying breakfast potatoes were crispy and savory. The eggs left a little to be desired, but the seasonal dessert offering of blueberry-lemon butter cake ($12.99) more than made up for it as we traded bites and toasted to ourselves.

What’s very good

On a second visit, I dined solo at the bar, and while service (including a particularly slow kitchen) was uneven, the food was spot on. The crab, shrimp and lobster bisque ($9.99/cup) was packed with flavor, even though I’d classify it more as a chowder. Chunky bits of crustacean were joined by too-large cuts of carrots, but the creaminess and essence of the sea overcame any shortcomings. The shrimp and scallop risotto ($33.99) was also very tasty, even if it needed a couple pinches of salt. Sweet corn, asparagus, spinach and peas married with large shrimp and perfectly seared scallops.

Best bite

Hands down, my best bite goes to the chicken potstickers ($16.99) and that amazing Asian slaw. The crunchy and vivid slaw was a star by itself, and when combined with the fried dumplings and ginger soy sauce, an entire galaxy of flavor came to mind. Order one serving for dine-in and another to go.